G’day! If you’ve ever tried to rinse off beach sand with a kettle and a bucket while the southerly’s nipping at your ankles, you already know: hot water can make or break a trip. Whether you’re weekending by the coast, crossing the Nullarbor, or parked up at a red-dirt free camp, reliable hot water turns roughing it into living well. That’s where a portable gas water heater setup shines—hot showers, warm dishwater, even a quick dog wash—without chewing through your time, gas, or patience.
This guide unpacks why outdoor heaters are such a good match for Aussie conditions, how to pick the right size, and the little tricks that save gas and water while keeping showers toasty. We’ll keep the tech talk in plain English and toss in a few “too easy” shortcuts you can use straight away.
Why outdoor hot water just makes sense in Australia
Australia is tailor-made for camping, caravanning, 4WD touring—and the weather can swing from balmy to brass-monkey cold overnight. An outdoor heater matches that rhythm because it fires only when water flows, then shuts off when you stop. No waiting around. No wasted energy idling like a pot on a stove “just in case.”
Quick term decoder (super short):
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L/min = litres per minute. Think “how many showers at once.”
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ΔT = temperature lift. Colder inlet water needs more oomph.
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MJ/h (or BTU) = burn power. More power = more heat available.
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PSI = water pressure. A steadier pump = steadier temperature.
That’s it—back to the fun stuff.
For everyday language and an easy buying lens, treat your heater as an on-demand tap of comfort. Turn on the water—heat. Turn it off—no burn. It’s camping kit that behaves like home, without the weight and waste of a storage cylinder.
The real-world benefits (what you’ll actually feel)
1) Time saved, zero faff
An instant setup means your shower happens when you decide—not after you’ve boiled three kettles. That’s gold with kids on a bedtime schedule or when you’ve come in freezing from a dawn fish. Pull in, clip hoses, set a sensible outlet temp, and your evening routine runs like a well-oiled ute.
2) Fuel efficiency that adds up
Because the burner only runs while water flows, you avoid standby losses. You can even ballpark usage:
Gas per shower (kg) ≈ (model’s kg/h × minutes ÷ 60).
Short, direct showers with a low-flow head keep that number tidy. Over a long trip, that’s fewer refills and fewer detours to hunt for LPG.
3) Steadier temperatures, fewer “whoa!” moments
Two things stabilise heat: set a comfortable outlet temperature and keep flow steady. With a consistent pump, you won’t get the roller-coaster of hot-cold bursts when someone opens a tap elsewhere. It feels like home, only with a better view.
4) Built for Aussie conditions
From salty coastal winds to chilly alpine mornings, our climate covers it all. An outdoor heater gives quick beach rinses, copes with cool inlet water by adjusting flow, and helps you stay water-wise during dry spells. It’s a practical way to clean up without filling buckets or wasting precious litres.
5) Portable and flexible
Heater, LPG bottle, hoses, and a compact 12V pump—that’s your whole “shower room,” and it fits in the boot. Pair it with a shower tent or windbreak, and you’re bathing under the gum trees ten minutes after arriving. When it’s time to roll, drain, dry, stow—no dramas.
6) Safety and compliance, made simple
Use outdoors in a well-ventilated spot, keep clear of flammables, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Look for local certifications (e.g., AGA) and stick to Australian standards for gas fittings and placement. If it’s portable/temporary, treat it like camping gear—not a permanent install—and never run it in enclosed spaces.
Use cases you’ll actually do
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Family camp: Post-beach showers, warm water for dishes, even a quick wash for the dog.
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Surf and fish missions: Rinse salt and sand at the car before you rug up.
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4WD and off-grid bases: Pair with solar and a battery for simple power; set up a reliable wash-up station away from camp kitchens.
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Caravan parks: If park water pressure is iffy, your own pump gives consistent flow and temperature.
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Farm or job site: Temporary hot water where the work happens, then pack it down at day’s end.
How to choose the right unit (no overthinking required)
Here’s a snap-together method that actually works:
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People and pace. Count regular shower users and whether you need back-to-back showers. That nudges you toward a certain L/min. As a loose guide: 6 L/min for solo or a couple, 8 L/min for most families, 10 L/min for winter or multi-user bursts.
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Season and ΔT. Cold river water in July? You’ll want either a bit more burner grunt or to run a slightly lower flow for the same comfy temp.
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Pump steadiness. A stable 12V pump gives consistent heat. Look for a model designed for continuous, even pressure rather than a chattery on-off style.
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Portability and mounting. Think about how you’ll use it most: hanging on a hook, clipped to a stand, or set on a table near the ute. Lighter is easier for quick stopovers.
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Controls you’ll actually use. Simple knobs are fine; a unit that lets you set an outlet temperature is even better—less fiddling with cold mixing.
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Accessories that make life easier. Regulator rated for your bottle, inlet filter (saves your heat exchanger), quick-connects, a windbreak, and a low-flow shower head.
If you like examples, many Aussie families land on an 8 L/min “sweet spot” that balances winter needs with portability—Camplux’s BV158 is a common reference point in that range. Lighter travellers might prefer a 6 L/min unit; bigger crews or alpine regulars lean toward 10 L/min.
Setup and placement checklist (portable/temporary)
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Pick an outdoor, ventilated spot. Give it breathing room and keep it out of enclosed areas like vans, annexes, or closed tents.
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Shield from wind and rain. A simple windbreak does wonders for steady flame and temperature.
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Mount safely. Hang securely or set on a stable surface; keep the LPG bottle upright and away from heat.
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Route hoses neatly. No sharp bends or pinch points; hand-tighten fittings and then check.
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Leak check. A little soapy water on gas connections will show bubbles if anything’s off.
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Winter or altitude. Pre-warm the system by briefly running; lower flow a touch to keep heat up.
Save gas and water without trying
Small tweaks, big wins:
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Set an outlet temperature close to your shower comfort so you don’t need to mix in cold (mixing can throw off stability and burn more gas).
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Shorter showers, smarter heads. A good low-flow head feels great and uses much less water.
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Insulate lines and add a wind shield. Less heat lost to air = less gas burned.
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Keep your flow steady. A steady pump reduces burner cycling, saving fuel and nerves.
Maintenance that pays for itself
Clean gear runs cheaper and lasts longer:
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Filters. Rinse the inlet filter often, especially if you’ve been drawing from creeks or dams.
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Descale. Hard water equals mineral build-up; a periodic descale keeps heat exchange efficient.
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Hoses and seals. Check for wear, cracks, or slow leaks. Replace before a big trip.
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Salt spray care. After coastal trips, dry the unit and wipe away salt residue.
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Safety features. Every so often, confirm that flame-out, overheat, and wind pressure protections work as intended.
FAQs (the quick-answer edition)
1) Why does winter make showers feel less stable?
Cold inlet water forces a higher temperature lift. Lowering flow slightly lets the burner keep up, giving you steady warmth.
2) How long will a 9 kg bottle last?
Use the simple ballpark: (model’s kg/h × total minutes of burn ÷ 60). Track a weekend to learn your pattern.
3) Can I use it inside a tent or van?
No. These are for outdoor, well-ventilated use only. Treat them like a camp stove—outside with fresh air.
4) What size pump do I need?
Pick a 12V pump rated within the heater’s recommended PSI and flow range. “Smooth and steady” beats “powerful but pulsy.”
5) What about wind?
Wind starves burners and cools heat exchangers. Use a basic windbreak and face the unit away from the breeze.
6) How do I stop scale?
Fit a simple sediment filter, descale periodically, and if your water is very hard, reduce temp slightly to slow deposits.
7) Safe temperatures for kids?
Aim around mid-to-high 30s °C to low 40s °C and test the water at the head before they hop in.
8) Do I need a licensed installer?
For portable, temporary camping setups using standard hoses and regulators: generally no. For fixed installs: yes—use a licensed gasfitter and follow Australian standards.
9) Gas vs electric vs wood?
Electric is tidy but power-hungry. Wood is romantic but slow and labour-intensive. Gas is compact, quick, and predictable off-grid.
10) How often should I service it?
Light camping: quick checks each trip and a yearly once-over. Heavy use: add a mid-season filter clean and descale.
Quick pre-trip / during / pack-down checklist
Before you roll:
Bottle level, regulator and hoses, fresh batteries (if used), pump leads and fuses, inlet filter clean, quick fire-up test.
While in use:
Outdoor placement, wind shield up, outlet temperature set, leak check done, kids briefed not to fiddle with knobs.
When packing away:
Turn off gas, drain lines, shake out the shower head, dry the unit, coil hoses without kinks, store out of salt spray.
A few model-sizing examples (to make it concrete)
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Solo surfer or couple in mild weather: 6 L/min is easy to carry and plenty for one shower at a time. Keep showers short; you’ll be amazed how far a bottle goes.
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Family of four, mixed seasons: 8 L/min gives comfortable back-to-back showers. Pair with a low-flow head and a steady pump for “home-like” consistency.
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Winter trips, alpine camps, or a gang of mates: 10 L/min gives more headroom when the river’s icy. You can still run it modestly on warm days.
The main thing: match your people × season × flow. If in doubt, choose the middle ground, then fine-tune with flow settings and a good shower head.
Final thoughts (kept short, promise)
Outdoor hot water doesn’t have to be a faff. With a right-sized unit, a steady pump, and a couple of wind-wise tricks, you’ll get quick, comfortable showers and spend less on gas. Too easy.
